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Debates over wine openers attend to hinge (ha) on one essential comparability: the traditional double-hinged corkscrew, usually merely known as a wine key or a waiter’s corkscrew, versus, properly, the whole lot else. The unostentatious wine key’s thought of the superior instrument by most sommeliers, preferable to a “butterfly” or winged corkscrew (the kindly with two arms) or quick-fix devices love the Rabbit.
But for the wine drinkers who’re chance bottles with a little bit of age on them, there’s a further opener price having when the near-infallible wine key wont reduce it: an ah-so. Perhaps the only instrument of all, an ah-so has two flat, skinny prongs that, when inserted into the neck of the bottle, hug the cork on both aspect to extract it.
“An ah-so is ideal for older bottles, which may have corks that are breaking down,” says wine professional Derrick Westbrook of Chicago, curator of this month’s Eater Wine Club wines. “It’s saved my life many times in the restaurant when opening a 30- or 40-year-old bottle.”
The ah-so’s essential goal is these bottles with some age (cerebrate at the very least 30 years), since over time a bottle’s cork will commence to crack down and turn into brittle. When this occurs, inserting a corkscrew down the focus will reason the cork to splinter in half or molder into items. (This is why bottles are sometimes saved in humid cellars and mendacity on their sides — the wine stays in touch with the cork to retain it dank.) Likewise, if plane a youthful cork splits in half when utilizing a corkscrew leaving sever of the cork within the bottle, switching to the ah-so is your greatest ante since carrying on with a wine key once more energy simply propel the cork into the bottle.
The Monopol Westmark Germany ah-so is especially beloved by sommeliers and is an simple go-to for Westbrook. As one other preference there’s the Durand, greater in charge maybe as a result of it does double responsibility with an old school screw plus a clique of two blades that resemble an ah-so.
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